Build It Small

Why size matters to brewery success and where you'll drink beer in NYC this fall

Earlier this year, I talked about how in a contracting industry, the smallest of small breweries are more insulated from broader trends that have caused larger breweries to shutter. I pointed out that states that still saw beer production growth in 2024 were those with a large number of breweries but lower production volume. Well, there’s another data point from the Brewers Association that reinforces my belief that’s the case. Their 2025 Midyear Report still shows a contracting industry: nearly 100 more breweries have closed than opened in the past 12 months, and production volume in craft beer is down 5%, with the loss primarily coming from distribution-focused breweries.

The report itself calls out specifically the trend I’ve been seeing: that so far this year, breweries with on-premise taproom business models have outperformed distribution models by 1 to 2 percentage points. And significantly fewer of the smallest breweries — those that make less than 1,000 barrels per year — have seen their production volume shrink this year compared to larger brewers (43% versus 47%), and half of those small breweries are still growing in this ailing business environment. It’s worth noting that the on-premise business model has turned the industry on its head. I don’t think we’re ever going back to an era where there are just 1,000 or so breweries in the U.S., because the small taproom model has been proven to work. Those small taprooms make up 73% of the 9,000+ breweries in the country, but represent only 15% of the total volume of craft beer in the U.S.

These numbers also represent a reality check for brewers that have shifted their business model. I’m highly skeptical of claims that breweries will continue to produce beer for distribution after they’ve closed their taprooms. These numbers show how much more difficult that can be. It’s why we saw someone like Interboro initially attempt this model after their Williamsburg brewery’s closure at the end of 2023, only to sunset as a brand less than a year later. Other breweries across the country have made similar promises that never even materialized.

I remain convinced that the most successful brewery business model right now is one that is focused on creating a welcoming on-premise experience that drives repeat business through good beer, good service, and a good environment. It’s a model that’s far less exposed to the challenges the industry is facing overall, and its relative success means that I’m not going to run out of breweries to visit anytime soon.

Coming Attractions: Three New Beer Venues Coming to NYC

Looking for a little optimism? Here are three new spots where you can look forward to drinking beer in New York City this fall.

Barcade Financial District: While the region lost Barcade Jersey City earlier this year, the chainlet’s third location in Manhattan is coming soon, on Cortlandt Street between Church Street and Broadway. The space will occupy a portion of the former Century 21 Department Store, filling it with plenty of local and regional craft beer on tap and a lineup of arcade games like those you’ve come to love at Barcade’s three other locations in the city in Williamsburg, in Chelsea, and on St. Marks Place. Follow Barcade to keep tabs on the official opening.

The Greats of Craft LIC Waterfront: Coming off the opening of their expansive Queens Warehouse location last year, Greats of Craft is opening their third location closer to the East River near the corner of Center Boulevard and 47th Avenue. The new space will feature the usual pairing of uppers and downers from their other locations: coffee and beer. The space occupies a former wine bar right on Gantry Plaza State Park, just a stone’s throw from the Pepsi Sign. Follow them on Instagram to keep tabs on updates.

Eckhart Beer Co: The taps are installed and the facade is up on what will be New York’s newest brewery taproom. You can already visit Eckhart’s location to purchase cans of their beer to-go out of their front door on Fridays and Saturdays on Johnson Avenue in Brooklyn. But soon, they will soon be opening a taproom with a kitchen, a well-appointed bar and seating area, and lots of Lukr taps for pours of their delicious lagers. Prepare for the day you can sip their German-Style Pils and argue with your friends about whether you’re in East Williamsburg or Bushwick. They’ll have details on their website once the taproom is open.

Upcoming NYC Beer Events of Note

• Brooklyn: West Coast Week at Torst, through Saturday, 7/26, free entry

• Brooklyn and Manhattan: NZ Hop Week at Other Half Gowanus, Domino Park, and Rockefeller Center, Thursday 7/24 through Wednesday 7/30, free entry

• Staten Island: Kills Boro Pizza Party at Snug Harbor Cultural Center, Saturday 7/26 from noon-4pm, tickets $75

• Manhattan: An Evening with Schilling at As Is NYC, Tuesday 7/29 from 6pm, free entry

• Manhattan: Mad Scientist Beer Dinner at Sixpoint Brookfield Place, Friday 8/1 at 6pm, $75

• Manhattan: Curds & Hops Cheese and Beer Tasting at Murray’s Cheese, Friday 8/8 at 6:30pm, tickets $110

• Brooklyn: Summer Of Pils: Grill & Chill with Lobster Place at Threes Brewing Gowanus, Thursday 8/14 from 5-9pm, free entry with RSVP discount

• Brooklyn: Blocktoberfest 2025 Presented by the NYC Brewers Guild at Strong Rope Red Hook, Sunday 9/28 from noon-4pm, tickets $60

Brewery Tracker

Total brewery count: 3,832
Total breweries visited in 2025: 206
Total breweries visited in Illinois: 85

Brewery Visit of the Week

Brewery #3826, is/was brewing, Chicago, Illinois (Visited 18-Jul-2025)

With this many breweries under my belt, it’s not every day that I get unreasonably excited from the second I walk into a taproom. But last weekend, I walked into is/was brewing in Chicago’s Ravenswood neighborhood, looked up at the draft list, and immediately knew I was in for a treat. The menu is sorted into two categories: Saisons and Non-Saisons. Tickle me pink. It’s been a long time since I’ve come across a Saison specialist, and I dug into the beer list starting with Bourgeois Daydreams, their delicate and refreshingly dry and lemony 3.2% ABV Table Beer. I moved onto the Always Zag, a rustic Saison with spelt that was one of the brewery’s original beers in their early days as a tenant brewer. And Will Be, is/was’ flagship Saison is a quintessential example of the style with fruity esters and a dry finish. In addition to their draft beers, they have a long list of bottle-conditioned beers, which I regret not digging into further but will give me a good excuse to get back here again.

is/was is also an example of what a mature beer scene like Chicago’s can produce. We’re long past the era of run-of-the-mill breweries with no real direction can open in a market with as much competition as this one. A brewery like is/was that is almost singularly focused on one style can thrive in an environment where there are a lot of informed beer consumers. If that means a taproom full of Saisons, I’m totally here for it.

The Doom and Gloom Tracker

At least 2 breweries I’ve visited closed or announced their closure this week:

• Brewery #2346, Wild Mind Artisan Ales, Minneapolis, Minnesota [Visited 2-Sep-2021]

• Brewery #3368, Five Suits Brewing Company, Vista, California [Visited 16-Mar-2024]

The Weekly Reader

• New York Blood Center’s Pint for a Pint is back [Mira Wassef, PIX11]

• Don’t sleep on the Finger Lakes’ beer scene [Christopher Osburn, The Manual]

• Amid all the closures, here’s a brewery that’s reopening [Will Cleveland, Cleveland Prost]

• Not everything you’ve learned about beer is true [Jeff Alworth, Beervana]

One Last Thing

For the first time since its inaugural edition, I’m finally getting a chance to go back to Kills Boro’s Pizza Party on Staten Island this Saturday. It’s one of my favorite concepts for a beer festival. After all, pizza and beer are a match made in heaven. There are still some tickets available and the weather looks pretty good for a Saturday afternoon full of riding the ferry, drinking local beer, and eating slices. See you on the island!

Cheers,
Chris