I’m writing this at 10pm on a Saturday evening from a pub in Manchester, England, where the vibe is relaxed, the recorded jazz is barely audible over the din of pleasant conversation, the ESB in my glass is delicious, and I’m just sitting here taking it all in. There’s something about pub culture that a lot of people here take for granted, and I even take it for granted often while traveling here. But looking around this well-worn pub with leather booths, wooden tables and stools, and a 22” TV that looks like it hasn’t been switched on in a decade, I’m quickly reminded of what I love about drinking my way around England. There simply isn’t anything to compare it to in the U.S.
I had to capture that moment in words: it was the first time I felt like I was truly back in England.
After two years away from this place where I trace some of my roots — a bit of a second home — I really needed a good, long stretch in England. And I’m getting it, on my third city stop of a ten-day trip here. Liverpool, Manchester, and Newcastle are each distinct and unique. In Liverpool, a cool-ass taproom bartender wrote down a list of their favorite pubs in town, which I visited on the ensuing nights, after spending days trekking three miles by foot to visit breweries in two charming suburban villages. In Manchester, I reconnected with old friends and, at one award-winning beer writer friend’s urging, took an excursion to a town in the Ribble Valley where I visited a beer shop that I read about last year. In Newcastle, I’ve been overwhelmed by the warmth of the people, the calmness of meandering along the River Tyne, and the quality of the local beer. That’s where I find myself now.
Next, this weekend, it’s time to leave England and explore uncharted territory in Scotland. Edinburgh is my only stop this time, but it will help me chart a future Scottish adventure. There will be much wandering, lots of historic sightseeing, and several late nights over beers.
It’s a short missive this week, but a reminder that BARch Madness is still going strong, and voting ends tonight in the Sweet 16.
Until next week, take time to appreciate our incredible local beer scene — I’ve been surprised by how many people over here are waxing poetically about New York beer and planning their next trips back to our great city. It helps that I’ve seen beers from the likes of Finback, Singlecut, LIC Beer Project, Barrier, and Equilibrium on this trip — all helping to keep our city top-of-mind. I’ve yet to do any quality control on those beers, but I might have to take one or two for a spin. You know, for science.
Cheers,
Chris
i know what you mean about the vibe and atmosphere of an English pub. anytime i see an imperial pint glass full of beer on TV/in a film, i just want to teleport over to the UK to enjoy a couple pours myself.
as for Edinburgh, i really enjoyed The Guildford Arms. cheers 🍻